Paris City Guide: Where to Eat, Drink, Stay and Wander Like a Local
Avalon Afriyie
Heading to Paris this winter? As a resident who has dedicated the past two years to perfecting the art of sauntering, I’m delighted to share unique recommendations for one of the world’s most charming capitals. Continue reading for a Paris city guide with local favourites.
Where to Eat
From traditional French Bistros to vegan dining, Paris offers a smorgasbord of eateries to appease everyone’s tastes and requirements.
19 Rue Jean Poulmarch, 75010 Paris
Renowned for gastronomy, Paris is home to many conceptual and innovative restaurants. Early June is an intimate venue hosting a rotation of celebrated chefs in an atmospheric location. The menus are varied and have previously spanned from Korean to Irish-inspired fare. This is a coveted spot, so arrive just before opening hours for guaranteed seating (especially during peak hours and holidays). Alternatively, arrive later, pop your name on the waiting list and head for a tipple at Le Comptoir Général on Quai de Jemmapes.
20 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, 75010 Paris
A reimagined vegan restaurant putting vegetables and pulses on a pedestal. The autumn menu includes potato millefeuille, “Thit Kho” style cauliflower and a moreish pain perdu. I can guarantee it will satiate your taste buds, whether you’re vegan or not.
108 Rue Amelot, 75011 Paris
Opt for Kubri for reimagined Lebanese cuisine. The dynamic venue reflects some of the most vibrant and flavoursome plates the city has to offer. Conceived by two Franco-Lebanese sisters, each dish honours cultural heritage with contemporary elements. As in most French restaurants, the recipes reflect seasonally abundant produce. This Autumn, offerings include escargot shawarma to cauliflower Fattoush. The best part of the experience is the sharing plates, enabling you to discover a wealth of Middle Eastern flavours in a single visit.
Where to Drink
Cafés and bars are an important part of French culture. There are many dotted around the city— whether you’re looking for a frothy matcha or chilled Sancerre.
15 Rue de Marseille, 75010 Paris
The entirety of the Buddy Buddy menu comprises vegan “milks” enriched with nut butter. My pick is the Matcha Buddy (high grade matcha with a dollop of peanut butter) or the classic, “Le Buddy” (a peanut and cacao latte).
84 Quai de Jemmapes, 75010 Paris
An underground bar boasting a spirited theme that will appease the child in you. No two nights are the same at Le Comptoir Général. Some evenings are dedicated to salsa while others are for chilled acoustic listening parties.
185 Rue du Temple, 75003 Paris
This quaint bar boasts a premium cheese and wine list— with knowledgeable and benevolent servers to assist with complementary pairings. It’s nestled in the discreet part of Le Marais, making for a relaxed evening.
Where to Shop and What to Do
Come October, Paris offers a distinctive autumnal charm. Locals turn inwards and frequent its many museums, covered passageways and intimate spaces.
Markets
Various: Marché Bastille, Marché des Enfants Rouges and Thrift markets
The weekends are best spent weaving in and out of produce markets and brocantes (thrift markets). Find the market calendar on Brocobrac so you can plan your days.
6 Rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris
Officine Universelle Buly dates back to 1803, with origins as a perfumery. It currently exists as a fragrance and object store, selling articles from scented matches (which French people use to perfume bathrooms) to tortoiseshell combs, toothbrushes and boar bristle brushes. The hair accessories (which can be embossed on site) make sentimental gifts.
2 Rue de Viarmes, 75001 Paris
Formerly a location for the negotiation of trade of grain and commodities (you’ll note the overarching mural denoting this epoch overhead), Bourse de Commerce hosts contemporary works across various artistic mediums—from videography, the exploration of multidisciplinary works and installations to titillate the senses. The latest exhibit, “Minimal”, explores subjects including light, object, texture and the intersectionality of these mediums. For those wishing to envelop themselves in the full experience, the museum is home to Halle Aux Grain, a restaurant paying homage to the ground’s heritage, located on the third floor.
89 Rue Réaumur, 75002 Paris/168 Rue du Temple, 75003 Paris
For a relaxing and attainable second-hand shopping experience, head for Bobby—a well-curated consignment store bridging the gap between high-end luxury and entry-level designer. In the past, I’ve spotted everything from Rixo to vintage Celine.
Caveau de la Huchette
5 Rue de la Huchette, 75005 Paris
I’ve had some of the most exhilarating nights of my life at Caveau de la Huchette—whether I’ve attended solo, with my partner or girlfriends. Leave your inhibitions at the door and dance the night away to live jazz, alongside an inclusive and convivial crowd. This is a popular underground club, so I recommend arriving 30 minutes before the opening time to avoid the long queue.
Where to Stay
In Paris, each arrondissement offers its own distinction. Montmartre and Canal Saint Martin are two of my preferred places for an authentic and well-rounded experience.
Montmartre
Nearest Metro Stop – Abbesses
Montmartre offers a charming view of Paris. To make the most out of your time there, arrive at Metro Abbesses (though be warned, there is a 176-step spiral staircase ahead) and you’ll instantly feel like you’ve stepped back in time. The neighbourhood speaks to the spirit of artists and scholars who have graced its streets with their legacy. You’ll find busts (namely Buste de Dahlia), renowned film locations, caricature artists hard at work and even a vineyard hidden in plain sight. Start your tour at The Wall of Love and weave in and out of charming roads before arriving at the footsteps of Sacré-Cœur, where you can ride the funicular or take steps to the viewpoint. While you’re in Montmartre, I recommend taking a photo at Fotoautomat (the vintage-style photo booth featured in Amélie) and grabbing croissants from Pain Pain. After viewing Sacré-Cœur, head down Rue de l’Abreuvoir (coined one of the prettiest streets in Paris) and end with a leisurely jaunt on Rue de Matrys.
Canal Saint Martin
Nearest Metro Stop – République or Jacques Bonsergent
Canal Saint Martin is one of Paris ‘ kept secrets as tourists tend to stay on Rive Gauche (the southern part of the river). While I’d recommend everyone to visit the Tour d’Eiffel and Avenue des Champs-Élysées for an aspirational experience, the heart of the city lies River Droite. It offers incomparable character, multiculturalism and an authentic Parisian experience. Canal Saint Martin is in the intersection of the 3rd, 11th, 19th and 18th, most of which feel residential. The 10th arrondissement is an animated and energetic part of Paris. The Canal is lined with bustling cafes, restaurants and bars. In this area, you’ll find HolyBelly, La Combine, Plan D, the aforementioned Le Comptoir Général and Buddy Buddy. It’s also home to acclaimed boulangeries, including: Du Pain et des Idées (an award-winning bakery conceived by former fashion expert Christophe Vasseur), Mamiche and Ten Belles.
Where To Co Work
Recognised for their dedication to a work life balance, many cafés prohibit or limit working hours. To avoid confusion, head to one of Paris’s many work-friendly spaces.
30-32 Rue du Sentier, 75002, Paris
Natural light floods the Hoxton’s courtyard and lobby, making it a favourite of locals and visitors for meetings. It was envisioned for remote workers, so the space isn’t exclusive to guests. This spot is centrally located and around the corner from Sézane’s flagship store (on Rue Saint Fiacre) and Bambou (a Thai restaurant), both of which I’d recommend visiting.
Bibliothèque Nationale de France (BNF)
5 Rue Vivienne, 75002 Paris
Bnf is a research library housing an expanse of writing archives and a reading room envisioned by renowned architect Henri Labrouste. The library is a free public resource that locals frequent to read and study. The magnificent space and oval glass ceiling overhead (decorated with golden acanthus leaves, no less) is sure to inspire creative thought. If you’re in the mood to expand your historic repertoire, The Mazarin Gallery is one of the few surviving Baroque galleries in France (although viewing the historical monuments requires a charge).
Hubsy
Various Locations
With co-working cafés from Le Marais to La Défense, Hubsy is a place to bookmark. There are no bookings required and rates start from €6.50 (for the first hour) to €28 (for a full day). Hubsy also offer private meeting rooms and membership programmes, where you can gain access to all four branches around Paris.
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