Your recent “Bella” collection features Organic Bamboo Silk and other sustainable fabrics. Can you tell us more about the challenges and benefits of sourcing and incorporating these eco-friendly materials into your designs, as well as your vision for the future of sustainable fashion materials?

As I mentioned, I no longer have the same barriers I faced when I first launched the label. It is much easier to source sustainable materials and I feel I have developed a strong working relationship with my fabric suppliers. One of the benefits of having such a good relationship is that they contact me to discuss new fabrics they are working on and new developments. Plus, I have early access to new colours and designs that are introduced into their range. 

With the increased media coverage and general support for using sustainable materials, I believe it will only get easier to source and for customers to be secure in the knowledge that they are buying sustainable fashion. 

It’s impressive that you actively participate in local sustainability events and fashion talks. Could you share some key takeaways or insights from your experiences speaking at events like Brighton’s Sustainable Fashion Week and the Circular Economy Panel? How do these engagements inform your brand’s sustainability initiatives? 

I am honoured to be able to take part in these sustainable events as I feel that this discussion is incredibly important. Sharing my firsthand experience of the exploitative nature of fast fashion has been empowering and motivates me to make sure no one is exploited in my supply chain. This isn’t easy and is an ongoing project, but these engagements allow me the opportunity to step back and look at the label and assess what else I can do to be more sustainable. It is also inspiring to hear other company’s stories, their initiatives, and what motivates them. I feel as though there is a lot of support within the sustainable community. 

Ayten Gasson initially stocked lingerie with small boutiques and department stores before transitioning to a completely online business. What prompted this shift, and how has it impacted the brand’s sustainability efforts and customer engagement?

When I first launched the label, my sole avenue for sales was through retail stores. Selling directly to the public was unattainable as there were no online shopping options available at that time Depending on these stores to retail my designs meant producing large quantities and accumulating excess stock, leading to unnecessary waste. Following the 2008 recession, I found more of my stockists wanted to work on a sale or return basis, which means any unsold stock would be returned back to me. This made me re-evaluate my business model and look at ways to connect directly with my customers.  In 2016 I opened my first boutique in Brighton. Running a shop was challenging but very rewarding. My shop was slightly different to a lot of brick-and-mortar businesses as all our pieces were made on the shop floor. This meant our customers could watch us design, pattern cut and sew all our collections. I created a space which allowed our customers to engage with us and our manufacturing process was incredibly transparent. But this did mean that we couldn’t get on with the designing or sewing. We were frequently stopped and asked to explain our process. In the end, I found I was neglecting the label and focusing on the day-to-day running of the shop. That is why I decided to move to a private studio. Unfortunately, I am not in a position to do both as the cost of running a shop is too high, especially when you have the daily cost of running a studio. Now that I am producing all my designs in the studio, I can limit our production runs so only a few items are made at a time and much of our stock is made to order. This means once an order comes in, I can make it and send it to the customer, usually within 4 working days. This means we can reduce the amount of fabric we need to purchase at one time. As everything is cut and made in the studio, I can make sure I use as much of the fabric as possible. Eye masks and bra panels can be cut from sections left from larger pattern pieces, such as our camisoles and knickers. We are then left with scraps that are too small to use, which are donated to local schools and community centres. 


Ayten Gasson has a loyal and ever-expanding customer base. Can you share some of the strategies or initiatives that have helped you maintain and grow this dedicated following in the luxury sustainable silkwear market?

I don’t rely on specific strategies to expand my customer base. Instead, through years of experience, I’ve learned the importance of listening to my customers and understanding what they are looking for. Customer service has always been important to me and I value any feedback I receive while looking at ways to improve what we offer. If a customer emails to inquire about the fabric content of one of our pieces, it indicates that I haven’t provided sufficient information on my website, so that is something I have to improve. It’s an ongoing journey, and it’s the support and motivation from my customers that continually drive me forward.